VeloZap : A great idea on the road

This section is devoted to people having a bicycle as their main possession, not always
having access to up-to-date occidental medicine, and willing to try and experiment a

On the same lineage and good meaning of Dr Clark's zapper, Maestro-Zapper offers the
idea, schematics and use of VeloZap, on Public Domain, hopping that the simplicity of this
circuit will permit to a larger number of people to try micro-currents on an experimental
and personal basis.

All recommendations and zapper warnings still applies with this circuit.  Please, read
"Contra-indications" page before using a zapper.
Bicycle is an almost universal
locomotion way, mainly on
countries where the occidental
consumption civilization did not
permit to everyone to "live" by its
"pills" medicine.

This simple and sturdy vehicle
comes back in North America as a
leisure activity, replacing sometimes
automobile, by choice rather than
by obligation.

In its popular version, bicycles have
an autonomous and primitive light
system, using an alternative
voltage generator of about 3W and
6V called "dynamo lighting" 
To build a VeloZap, you will need

A bicycle with a dynamo lighting system :
=  3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)

What we are looking for

A bicycle with a dynamo lighting system :
=  3W 6V (0.5A) with a frequency of 50-60Hz (or more) at about 10mles/h (15km/h)
How to do-it : Theory
Function of the 4 components
=  C1 & D1 converts the nominal 6VAC to a 16V (almost) DC
=  R1 limits the current to a safe level for the user (and the LED)
=  LED1 stops any voltage lower than 1.2V, and gives a visual indication that current flows.  Offset of this circuit is
1.2V.  Quite good.

Component description :
C1 = Electrolytic capacitor, value from 22 to 100uF, 50V or more.
D1 = Diode 50 to 100V, 50mA to 1A.
R1 = Resistor 1/8W to 1W. 1.0kohm to 2.2kohm
LED1 =  Any kind, high intensity recommended.

Our test circuit has been built with what we had in hand.
C1 = 22uF - 50V
D1 = 1N4004 (1A-400V)
R1 = 1kohm, 1/4W
            LED 5mm yellow, 700mcd@20mA - 2V

BEAWARE : The diode, capacitor and LED have a polarity you must respect : they have a (+) end and a (-)
They most be well connected : Capacitor with its (-) side on the dynamo, capacitor (+) side on the K
(Cathode) of diode (usually, the diode has a bar marking on its (K) side).  LED has a flat on Cathode side.
Badly connected, circuit will not work and/or capacitor could die.
How to do-it : Practice
Assembled circuit #1
Poignée : Exemple_1
In theory, this small generator, able to deliver up to 500mA, could drive up to 50 VeloZap circuits (use-it stationary,
please!   :-) ).

You can add many VeloZap circuits in parallel (all "capacitor input" connected to the dynamo, all "diode input"
(Chassis) connected as common) or you can made the circuit bellow :
Fig_1 = Dynamo Lighting System
Positive points of this zapper
=  Extremely simple : only 4
components, no battery.
=  Very low price ($1.00 to $2.00),
less with second hand or salvaged
=  Simple to build
=  Simple to use
=  Can be converted to be used by
many people at once (stationary
use, of course!)
=  Can be used far away of any
=  Can be used on others

Negative points :
=  Quite low frequency, needs
longer use
=  Almost sinusoidal current, do not
produce harmonics as a square
wave do.

To summarize :
Its bigger disadvantage (low
frequency) can be easily
compensated by a daily or longer

Don Croft MiniZapper, of good
reputation, uses a frequency of
15Hz, so...

Who cares of this low frequency? 
Not me!
Wire : Any kind.  In my trials, I used
telephone wire (shown) and old AWG#18
coming from an old lamp)

Capacitor C1 : This component is polarized.
Most often it shows a cylindrical body and
comes in two kinds :
1=  Both wires are in the same side (sample
shown).  A mark identifies the negative wire
most of the time.
2=  A wire exits from each side.  (+) wire exits
on the recessed side

Diode D1 : This component is polarized.
Most of the times this component has a
cylindrical body, and its Cathode (K) has a

Resistor R1 :Most of the time this component
has a cylindrical body with color strips to
identify its value :
Brown, Black, Red = 1, 0, 00 = 1000ohms
Red, Red, Red = 2, 2, 00 = 2200ohms
Often, another strip (Gold or Silver) identify the
tolerance.  Not important here.

LED : This component is polarized. 
Being a diode, this component ha a mark to
identify its cathode (K).   Our Led has a small
flat on its low end, on shorter wire side.
Here is shown one assembly of components. 
Many other ways can be used, depending on
components and "individual taste".

The overall weight is so small that an "air
mounting" , Hot Glue assembly or other non-
conventional assemblies can be made,
depending on your resources or electronic
Steps to final assembly bellow
=  Wrap with electrical tape both connections.
=  Add wire connections
    =  Green wire for live input
    =  Dark wires (2) for chassis connection and
(-)  handhold
    =  Orange wire for live handhold output (+)
=  Wrap each component and solder joints.
=  Isolate the overall circuit.  Colored wires will
avoid error connections.

Not very fancy, but functional.   This assembly
has been mounted in the front light, for long
term testing, with the LED visible from the
When the LED lights (dim), the electrical circuit
is "closed" throughout the bicycle user.
For sure, this rough assembly can
be made more ... up-to-date, if you
can afford "normal" electronic

Here is another example, made
with a piece of prototyping board
and an In-Out connector.  This
more professional-looking circuit
can be mounted inside a small
plastic enclosure, mounted
anywhere on the bicycle.  The LED
can be mounted outside this box
(close to a handhold, for better
visibility), as long as the electrical
circuit is as shown, and connections
well isolated from chassis metal.
Here are some comments of my
experiences with this circuit :

indications" PAGE

Note : Depending on the dynamo
used and choice of components,
results may vary.  Numbers shown
are those of my experiences and
are given as an rough indication.

=  The dynamo lighting system
used here (manufactured by Tung
Lin, cost-me about $25Can) gives 2
cycles per revolution.  This means
about 100Hz at 10km/h, 150Hz at
=  Without load (lights) this dynamo
give me 14Vpeak at the output of
VeloZap circuit for 10km/h speed,
25Vp at 20km/h and 40Vp at
=  With front and rear lights "ON",
these numbers fall to 6Vp at
10km/h and 10Vp at 20km/h.
=  With these results in mind, I use
a switch to stop front light and let
rear light "ON".  I have then
measured 11VP at 10km/h and
19Vp at 20km/h.
=  If you use a stationary exercise
bicycle, use numbers without load.
=  Without load, I feel nothing
when I use "dry" handholds
(1mA_RMS).  If I add 2 layers of
moisten paper towel, current build-
up to 2.2mA_RMS and I feel the
characteristic "tinkle" of electricity
flowing trough me.  Not harmful,
but unpleasant to many.  By adding
the rear light, current decreases
enough to remove the "tinkle feel".
=  If you use wet paper towel, you
can decrease the current flow by
wrapping the handholds with 3 or 4
turns instead of 2.  You can add too
a 470ohms or 1kohm resistor in
series with the output circuit.
BE AWARE!  : The assembly and
trial of this circuit is made by you
at your own risk and with your
only responsibility.
We cannot help in any way if this
circuit fails or do not work as
YOU expected.  Results may vary
from one case to the other.
The main advantage of this circuit is
the common input part C1-D1.
C1 = 22uF x Nber of circuits.
For 32 circuits :
C1= 36x 22uF= 792uF => 1000uF

There is a drawback : If C1 or D1 dies,
all 36 circuits are in trouble.

My personal choice would be a
complete VeloZap circuit per user
To end this assembly, here is a
rough example of my handholds,
done for test.
= Wrap 2 layers of any metallic foil
(Here, kitchen aluminum foil), and
maintain-it with multiple turns of
electrical wire.

Other arrangements are possible. 
= Put enough electrical wire to
cover the handlebar handhold (no
aluminum foil needed).
=  Use a naked handlebar for the
chassis handhold.
=  Wrap a 2 layer of wet cotton
tissue or kitchen paper towel to
have a better electrical contact and
be isolated from the metal.

Check time to time if the LED dims,
to be sure everything is OK.
Fig_2 = VeloZap schematic, added to the dynamo lighting system

Certain Internet sites associate zapper and serious illness.
It is not our role to make such assertions. 

Illness does not interest us.

We leave it to the experts of the unhealthy states.
We are only interested to feel better, which is highly subjective, and to get rid of as much “invaders” who drain our resources, as possible.

These invaders, who live at our expense, we name them under the generic name of “parasites”.

We experience the influence of the zapper effect
on these parasites, on a hypothetical and empirical basis, which have nothing to do with medical or scientific rules.
Legal disclaimer :
We do not prescribe, diagnose, or make any medical claim or advices.

The principles, assumptions or theories exposed here have no medical or scientific value officially recognized.
Please note that Dr Clark’s  books or devices have not been evaluated by Health Canada (Canada) or Food and Drugs Administration (USA), and then, have not received any guarantee on their effectiveness or their safety.
Zappers can only be sold or used as experimental devices for educational research.  They are not intended for use in the cure, treatment, prevention, diagnostic of any disease.

If illness is an issue, please consult a licensed health professional before attempting any self health program.

By using this information without the approval of a licensed health professional, you are prescribing for yourself, as permitted by law, and you take full responsibility for the results.
These results may vary depending on individuals
Applied Electronic to Well-Being